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What’s On My Plate: Denison Farm

Summer means farms and that means I get to go to another amazing one … this time in New York State! Laurie Thompson, our Saratoga store Produce Buyer/Supervisor who’s been working with Healthy Living for many years, visited Denison Farm in Schaghticoke, NY.  I zipped down from Vermont for the day to join her.  Denison is a family farm and Healthy Living is a family business—so there was an immediate connection.    164 Acres Of Dedication!  July 17th. A very hot day in Schaghticoke, NY. (Remember that hot spell we all endured?) Laurie and I spent time with Justine and Brian Denison at their spectacular organic farm where they and their crew grow a wide range of produce that we’re so proud to sell!  Did I mention it was HOT? Denison Farm had not seen any rain for over three weeks, yet their fields were filled with an abundance of healthy, thriving crops. The river that divides their land allows Brian to irrigate much of the farmland.   We bounced down rutted paths in his pickup to see acre after acre of land. We visited their hoop house where beautiful basil and peppers are flourishing side by side. We were educated about cover crops that take up almost 30% of the land each year and provide nutrients for the next crop.  So Busy, So Generous   We met with farm staff, saw CSA members picking up orders, visited the washing and packing areas, and saw this amazing machine: the Checchi Magli that seeds and plants transplants with precision and makes the hard work of farming that much easier.   I was not only awed by the scale of the farm, but also by the generosity of these busy people. While we were bumping around in the pickup, Justine and I discussed all things Denison Farm!    After 44 years of farming (22 years in Maine and 22 years in NY), she had lots to tell me! I’ll let Justine tell her story in her own words: Justine:  Our First Farm In Maine, we were conventional, wholesale vegetable growers on the beautiful bottom ground soil next to Merry Meeting Bay, where we grew close to 100 acres for markets in Boston, Portland, and locally.  Our family became quite ill from the contaminants in our water, the stray voltage in our barn from the high-tension power lines, and the chemicals Brian used in our farming practices. We made the decision to look for our own land in a different location and most importantly, to begin to farm organically.  Organic Growth We landed on this farm in Schaghticoke after a long search and are now happily both USDA Certified Organic and Real Organic Project certified!  We grow at least 60 different varieties of vegetables, herbs, watermelon, and cantaloupe. We are growing vegetables that have proven in the past to be winners for both our CSA and wholesale accounts. But we have now included Red Russian kale (thank you Brian for honoring my request!) and broccolini. We are always trying out new varieties for the standards.  Family Business  When Brian and I first met and decided to marry, he knew he wanted to farm. I was a suburban girl who wanted more than anything to teach. So I was a Main Organic Farmers and Gardeners (MOFGA) apprentice one summer to see if I wanted farm life as my way of living. And yes, I did!  I taught on and off until 2015 when I devoted all my energy to this farm. I think it was helpful as we grew our farm business and our family that I had a job off the farm. We have never stepped on each other’s toes—well, mostly never.  Brian is the grower and I do what I call “the rest” or the invisible work. And that’s okay for us! Often I have to fill people in who ask me what I do on the farm. I have to first point out that farming is a business and that a business doesn’t shut down ever, not even in the winter.   An Uplifting Partnership We have partnered with Healthy Living from the day the Saratoga Store opened. Well, actually even before the opening. Your first store manager came to the farm to meet us, see the farm, and talk about Denison Farm providing vegetables.  We also met with Eli and Michael Benoit in downtown Saratoga while the store was being built. I knew right then that I wanted to partner with HL! The relationship we have formed is valuable to our business and to our spirit. It’s more than just an exchange of goods for cash. It’s the ease, honesty, and support you all give us I hope you know is truly appreciated!  Now let’s learn about Laurie, Saratoga’s Produce Buyer/Supervisor: Laurie: I’ve been working and managing produce for 26 years now, 11 of those at Healthy Living. This is the first job that I love to get up every morning and come to work!  I adore working with the local farms! Every one of them is different in their own way. But they all stop by the department and check in when they deliver to make sure the quality looks good. With Denison Farm, I feel that I am part of their family. I have known Justine now for 11 years and look forward to them coming back every year. Justine also shops in the store and when she is here always checking in with us.   It was a joy to visit the farm with you, Katy. It was so peaceful and beautiful. All of the workers were so nice and it was great to meet the people who pick and pack my orders for the store!  ----------- Katy: Like I’ve said before, visiting farms is pure joy for me! It’s not just the fields bursting with crops, the cool tractors and machinery, and the lush hoop houses.  Mostly, it’s the people who work on the farms and the grit, talent, dedication, and hard work it takes to get the amazing food we are so privileged to consume in our stores and on our shelves!  Thanks so much to Justine and Brian and everyone at Denison Farm for your time and generosity. And to Laurie for making the trip with me, and everything you do in your most beautiful, joyful Produce Department.  Katy
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